perf(polygons): cull labels separately, and cache TextPainter
#1716
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For ease of reviewing, I pulled the "polygon label"-only changes out of #1714 AND add TextPainter caching (which is actually the biggest cost reduction)
I could also add the TextPainter caching to #1714 but maybe we don't make that one even more sprawling. I'd suggest to review this one first and then I'll update #1714 .